Easily the most time-consuming part of the whole wedding dress project was fit testing the bodice. I started with my basic bodice block - in most situations I can just this block just as it is and simply adjust the style lines, but with this dress it needed some major changes. The biggest challenge was to get the v-neck and the back as low as possible, while maintaining support around the bust. It took about 10 full mock-ups before I got it right.
Fit Test #1
Fit Test #6
Most of the tests were for small changes like changing the curve of the bust seam, increasing the length a bit, or adjusting the depth of the v-neck, but I ultimately had two “a-ha” moments that unlocked the bodice. The first was adding a mesh insert to the deepest part of the v-neck - this meant I could get the look of an ultra-deep neckline, and the structural integrity of a modest one. The second was the back; I had originally been sloping the top of the bodice pretty much straight down from the top of the bust in front to the waistline in back - this meant there was very little support for the bustline anywhere on the back or sides of the dress. I finally realized that if I raised the top edge on the side and only made it low cut between the straps I would get the best of both worlds: and open back supported by higher sides.
Final Bodice Fit Test!
The final bodice change I made, much later on in the process, was to add an underbust corselette as a structural layer underneath the dress. I got this idea from Kat Makes, who recommended the book Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer which walks through the use of corselettes in couture eveningwear, among many other things! For this dress I designed an underbust corselette that would add structure to the waist and hips, take strain off the seams of my main fabric, and help support the weight of the skirt.
An inside-out view of the corselette draft, so you can see the structure.
The last step once the bodice was done was to make a full mock-up, to make sure everything was just-so before I started cutting into any of the nice fabrics. I was thrilled with how the final test came out; I could really see the vision coming to life.
Next up I’ll get into the beautiful fabrics I used, as well as the dyeing process!